THE VILLAGE of Bran lies in the very
narrow valley of the Turcu River. Where the river curves there is a
rocky promontory, and on this the Teutonic Knights built in the
twelfth century a castle to defend the fertile high plateau, Tzara
Barsei, against the hordes of Eastern invaders. They built the
Castle of Bran out of rock and brick and rubble, and planned it
according to the shape of the rocky outcropping. In places the lower
walls are nine feet thick, but nearer the top of the castle the
thickness decreases to four feet and finally to two.
There are three kinds of openings in these walls. On the lower
levels there are the apertures that begin on the inner side of the
wall as windowlike spaces large enough for a man to stand in, but
narrow toward the center so that only long slits, just wide enough
for the use of a bow and arrow, are left in the outer wall; and
there are the oblong openings, near the floor, which can be closed
by great beams of oak that swivel around on a central pivot, so that
when the "window" is "open" the beam sticks out into the room on the
inside, and beyond the castle wall on the outside. On higher levels
of the castle, where the missiles of any attacking forces could not
reach them, are windows of ordinary size, but all are set into walls
so thick that window seats have been built, not below the window
sills, but along both sides of the window embrasures. Besides these
openings there are two in the tower room over the entrance which
resemble nothing so much as the magnified ventilating "hoods"
sometimes put over kitchen stoves. These are built into the wall at
a convenient height so that the castle defenders could remain
comfortably protected within the room, while a curved, masonry
"hood" formed a sort of small bay, open at the bottom. Through this
opening melted lead, boiling oil, and other oddments could be
dropped on the heads of the besiegers storming the entrance.
Since the castle was not built for comfort, but for defense, no
regard was given to the regularity of rooms. These cling to the rock
wherever the natural formation made it easier to locate them, so
that they meander up and down at various levels, connected by steps,
by long, crooked passages, by archways and balconies, and by
frequent irregular stairways, some built inside the very walls
themselves. One side of the castle is a thick wall enclosing a
small, oddly shaped courtyard in which my mother planted a little,
perfect garden, upon which one comes unexpectedly. The towers are
built where the rock itself is highest, and the views are
magnificent. One side looks down upon the narrow valley of the Turcu
and upon most of the village, while the opposite side overlooks the
plateau, the Tzara Barsei, with the long, dusty road leading to
Brasov, and the eastern Carpathians standing on the far horizon. I
used to love to sit in one of the tower windows, watching for the
dust cloud on the road that would announce the approach of some
awaited guest, and feeling like Sister Anne in the Bluebeard story
watching to see her brothers come. As a girl sometimes, waiting for
my mother, I took delight in the fact that from the cloud announcing
her arrival there came now and then dazzling flashes of light, where
the sun touched the bright metal work on the bonnet of the specially
designed Rolls-Royce she liked so much.
The town of Brasov presented the castle of Bran to my mother shortly
after World War I. She took delight in restoring it, and in her
hands it became an enchanting, fairy-tale castle, full of flowers,
standing "on the rock where the four winds meet." Because I loved it
as she did, she left it to me when she died, and it had for me an
importance which had nothing to do with the actual days I was able
to spend there physically. As a matter of fact, because of the
difficulty of heating it and of keeping the water from freezing, we
considered it habitable for only about four months of the year. It
took the Russian occupation to teach us that actually a man might
live there the year around—if he was sufficiently in desperate fear
for his life; but that story comes later.
In the spring of 1944, because the weather was still cold, I had
installed the younger children in a pleasant building at the foot of
the castle hill. This had once been a customhouse, because Bran was
almost on what had been the old frontier between Romania and
Austria-Hungary. It was actually two old, one-story houses, joined
together by a wide passageway which we used as a dining room. The
walls were thick, the ceilings low, the floors made of wide, dark
boards, and the whole interior was whitewashed, as are the walls of
most Romanian houses. All the windows had flower boxes full of
nasturtiums, and the whole place was very pleasant for what we
thought of as entirely temporary headquarters. |